The Trip That Will Take Me

Venturing into Steinbeck Country

Two weeks from now, my kid will move back to Kansas City for their junior year at the Kansas City Art Institute. I’m thrilled that they’re halfway through college, but wow. It’s going so fast. Wanna see a piece of their art? This is Varsity Mothman:

What does this have to do with travel? Absolutely nothing. It’s just a mama brag.

It seems like every semester, I accidentally book travel that overlaps with the beginning or end. This time, I was smart—I booked my flight to Oakland, CA on the first day of classes. From Oakland, I’m driving to Salinas to spend five days with friends in their gorgeous Victorian. Behold:

Last time I visited, I slept in the upstairs turret with the windows open, heating pad on my back, and it was one of the best sleeps I’ve ever had.

My friend Mary is the queen of this castle, and I’ve been remiss, letting far too many years go by between visits. Last time was 2012, although Mary and her husband Chuck and I happened to be in Manhattan on my birthday in 2021. That made for a perfect birthday dinner. Now, my kid’s considering a post-grad program in Monterey to study scientific illustration, so I should refamiliarize myself with the area and report back to them.

Last time I was in Salinas, I was working. There was an event at the John Steinbeck Center that needed my attention for my Woody Guthrie manuscript. Instead of doing Monterey stuff, I was meeting Woody Guthrie’s daughter and crying a lot. Not only was that awesome, but I also had plenty of fun with Mary and her crew. We ate exceptionally well all weekend and made a lot of wine disappear while talking and laughing around the dining room table.

Carmela and our group’s burgers at my inaugural visit to In n’ Out.

This time, I have two definite things I’ll be doing: going back to the Steinbeck Center, and soaking in Mary’s hot tub. But what else should be on my agenda? Here are some prospects:

Oakland

I’m on an early flight and don’t have to be anywhere at any particular time, so I’m thinking I’ll at least grab coffee and lunch in Oakland. Where? I don’t know yet, but I think I need to get it to-go and have a little picnic at MLK Jr. Regional Shoreline. Maybe Oakport Cafe. Or I can hop over to Alameda and go to Bad Barista, which I like based on name alone. I love to visit Faces by Liliana, but I’m arriving on Monday and she’s closed. Maybe before my flight home on Saturday.

Santa Cruz

Ah, that’s where I got my first glimpse of the Pacific Ocean. It stole my shoes. But they came back! I loved the vibe of this beachy town last time I visited Mary, but I think I need to skip it this time for the sake of time. But! Despite telling me it’s almost three hours from Oakland to Salinas, Google Maps isn’t quite right. Maybe. I just looked up Oakland to Santa Cruz to Salinas, and it’s around two hours. So hell yeah, I’m stopping in Santa Cruz!

My first Santa Cruz and Pacific Ocean visit.

Steamer Lane Supply looks like a must-visit. Located in Lighthouse Field State Park, it has coffee, beach access, and surfers. Yep. Definitely stopping there, as long as I remember that it doesn’t have an actual address.

Castroville

Every town in this area is the world capital of one vegetable, nut, fruit, or another. Going through Santa Cruz means I can stop in the artichoke capital of the world and score some fried artichoke hearts at the world’s largest artichoke. They were delicious last time.

The world's largest artichoke, and a Castroville produce vendor, May, 2012.

Salinas

Mary lives in Old Town, which includes downtown and the Steinbeck Center. I got lost on a lovely morning walk in the neighborhood last time I visited. Honestly? Mary and her family have excellent taste in food, so I’m not doing too much planning ahead, other than considering a visit to Pinnacles National Park. Otherwise, I’m just showing up where Mary tells me to.

Getting lost is even better when your favorite flower is growing everywhere. May, 2012.

Monterey

No, I didn’t see the pier, the aquarium, or anything in Monterey last time I went. I was working! And busy with friends! Geez. So now I get to rectify that.

I’m going to save the aquarium—I know, I know!—because I’d rather go if/when CJ joins me on a future Monterey college visit. I’m a little wary of Cannary Row. As much of a Steinbeck stan as I am, it might be too modernized/touristy for my taste. But I bet there’s good coffee and food to be found there, which can be used to change my mind. Wait … they have a Bubba Gump’s Shrimp Co., even though the ocean is right there. Yeah, no.

Fisherman’s Monterey Wharf normally wouldn’t appeal to me, but it does for two reasons: whales and sea lions. This seems to be the place to see the critters, and I’m into that. I’m going to load up on the anti-nausea syrup and pray to the vestibular gods that I can handle three hours on a boat for a whale watching cruise.

Hitting the Road

I love a good drive, and I’ve got a few in my sight. I’ll absolutely be doing 17-Mile Drive, which won’t do anything to cure my extreme California lust.

In doing today’s research, I learned something that makes me so happy—the 1 is open again! Hell yes, I’m going to Big Sur, which I have always wanted to experience! The country’s best pie is nearby in Hollister? I might not ever leave. Except there’s been talk of meeting one of my L.A. friends in San Luis Obispo for coffee. Maybe at Buen Dia? We’ll see! The Cold Fashioned looks like my kind of fussy fancy coffee.

I leave two weeks from Monday, and I think this trip will be the perfect cure to this year’s bout of Empty Nest Syndrome.

“We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us.” John Steinbeck, from “Travels with Charley”

I’ll need lots of coffee on this trip. Wanna buy one for me? I’d appreciate it!